Here in the Pacific Northwest, it is incredibly easy to grow large quantities of winter squash. I usually wait until the first frost bites the leafy vines then I go out that very day and bring the harvest in. Cured with good air circulation and warmish dry air for about two weeks, the skin hardens, making many varieties last in cool storage all winter long. I usually cook my last keepers for May Day/ Beltane soup.
All winter long this orange sweetness graces us with its vegetable goodness. Their abundance, and our continual desire for variety, has led me to push the limits of what I make with this vegetable. I tend to think of pumpkin and winter squash as inter-changeable. There are many varieties though. I'd recommend trying samples from your local farmers market and noting your favorites. I especially like hubbard-types and long neck pie-pumpkins. Buttercup turban squash are extra rich with dry flesh and make incredible cheesecake.
I often put large whole squash on a pan in a 375 degree oven to roast simply punctured, not worrying about cutting it open to remove the seeds until it is softer. It is messier to scoop out seeds when the squash is cooked, but not impossible, unless you think you can do it hot out of the oven....a sure way to get steam burns! This method works especially well for the huge varieties, like my beloved hubbards, that you really wrestle with to cut when raw...not that it's impossible, but why make it harder than it needs to be? This of course doesn't work if you want to save seeds. I only grow open pollinated varieties of squash and keep my squash patches separated by distance so I can save my own seeds. You don't need many! Choose your most perfect specimens to save seeds. Clean out the seed cavity before any cooking and separate the seeds from the pulp. Spread seeds out on a screen to air dry. Do not seal in an airtight place until they are thoroughly dry. Make sure to label type of squash and year harvested. I am usually able to direct sow these in rich garden soil by late April....but I digress....
If you wish to clean the seed cavity before cooking simple cut the squash in half and scoop out the stringy mass surrounding the seeds. Place halves on a tray cut side up. A pan of water in the oven with the squash will help it stay moist. Your squash is done when it gives virtually no resistance to a poking fork. The time is highly variable based on the size of squash, your oven temp and the variety of squash chosen. Plan on an hour for a medium large squash check it in 50 minutes and judge then how close to soft it is. Overcooked will always be sweeter and more delectable than undercooked...its something about the natural sugars, sweet potatoes are the same way.
Baked squash is easily pureed to use in soups, sauces, pies, puddings, muffins, breads. I have even made ice cream with it, though I have found generally folks are more open to calling it pumpkin ice cream!
Squash makes a delicious addition to many sweet dishes and can work with savory flavors incredibly well too. Peeled and cubed and added to curries, or halved and filled with herbal grain stuffing, grated raw to make a new version of latkes, ravioli filling, there are so many options! I will include a few recipes now and add more later.
Squash Cheesecake
Crust:
2 cups walnuts or hazelnuts
2T flour
¼ tsp salt
2T sugar
2/3 cup cold water
Filling:
1 1/2 cup of cooked pumpkin or pureed winter squash
8 oz cream cheese softened to room temp
½ cup sour cream or plain yogurt
4 eggs
1 cup sugar
¼ cup molasses
1 T pumpkin pie spices
1 teaspoon cinnamon
Blend nuts in food processor until they are a coarse meal with some chunks. Add flour, sugar, salt to mix then moisten with water. Butter a deep dish 9” pie plate, press in crust mixture this your fingers, working it up the sides. When evenly spread and thin let this sit while you mix the filling.
Cream the cream cheese and the sugar, add the molasses, sour cream, pumpkin and spices. Beat the eggs then add them to the mixture as well. Mix very smooth.
Pour filling into crust. Bake in preheated 400 degree oven for 10 minutes then turn the oven down to 350 degrees. Bake until the surface cracks and it is lightly browned, about 50 minutes.
Sometimes for a surprise I put some large dollop dark chocolate chips on top of the crust before I pour in the filling. I suppose you could pour in a melted chocolate layer but I never do.
This is also good baked in buttered custard cups with half a walnut on top, for a rich baked pudding. Shorten baking time based on the size of your baking dish.
Cool thoroughly before serving. Especially delicious served with freshly whipped cream.
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Winter Squash biscuits
2/3 cup butter (soft-ish, but not melted!)
1 cup spelt flour
1 cup oat flour
2 tsp baking powder
½ tsp baking soda
1 tsp salt
½ tsp ground black pepper (optional but delicious)
1 cup mashed roasted winter squash or sweet potato
3 to 4 tablespoons milk or apple juice or water
Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Mix all dry ingredients. Cut in butter, (using 2 butter knives or a pastry cutter) until butter is no more than small pea size chunks. Quickly stir in mashed squash and milk until dry ingredients are fully moistened, but no more.
Drop by large spoonfuls onto a greased baking sheet. Bake 12 to 15 minutes.
The bottoms will be golden when these are done. Brown on top will mean your biscuits could be too dry. This can be remedied by serving them with gravy or hot stew!
Enjoy these warm from the oven and store any leftovers in an airtight container. Makes 14 to 18 biscuits.
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Winter Squash Pate'
1 large onion, diced
3 cloves of garlic, chopped
2 T fresh sage, chopped
1 T olive oil
½ tsp salt
2 ½ cups roasted squash
1/3 cup sesame tahini
2 T white or yellow miso
¼ tsp cayenne pepper
½ tsp nutmeg powder
fresh black pepper to taste
Saute onion and garlic in olive oil, adding salt to draw out the moisture. Cook, stirring, for a few minutes to soften onions and start to brown the edges, add the fresh sage and saute' for two more minutes. Remove from heat and blend this and all remaining ingredients in food processor until smooth. Add black pepper to taste.
This is best served the next day as all the flavors really blend. Great on crackers or with dipper of choice, around here we love peeled raw kohlrabi sticks. You could fill ravioli with this mixture or little pastry turnovers. Yum!
Saturday, December 19, 2009
Winter Squash Blessings
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Mmmmmm... squash ice cream! Too bad I'm not doing the dairy thing! One of my regularly rotated dishes is a veggie curry that calls for sweet potatos in addition to cauliflower and green beans - but now you've got me thinking about substituting some squash next time... :)
ReplyDeleteI've made squash, or pumpkin ice cream with coconut milk instead of dairy also. I find full fat coconut milk to make fabulous frozen desserts. Using maple syrup to sweeten, or a combo of agave and maple syrup plus squash puree and pumpkin pie spices makes a rich, delicious and healthy ice cream substitute!
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